- 9 Volt Battery Flashlight
- Install 6 Volt Battery Flashlight Parts
- 6 Volt Rv Battery
- 6 Volt Flashlight Lantern
The purpose of this post is to, hopefully, inform you on what kind of batteries are out there. When the time comes to buy more batteries for flashlights, there are lots to put into consideration.
Search Results For '6 Volt Lantern Battery' 128 Items. 20v HyperMax™ Lithium-Ion 5.0 Ah High Capacity Battery. 20v HyperMax™ Lithium-Ion 5.0 Ah High Capacity Battery $ 59 99. Milwaukee at $99.00. Add to Cart Add to My List. Attach the Ignitor black wire to the negative terminal of the battery. Attach the red lead from the voltmeter to the battery positive terminal. The voltmeter should read battery voltage once all the connections are made. The magnet sleeve uses one magnet per cylinder. Using a paper clip, locate and mark one magnet. Not all flashlights are created equally; likewise, the methods to change the batteries vary from model to model. No matter what, the process usually involves twisting one part of the flashlight to take it apart and gain access to the battery chamber. Dim lights are usually caused by low voltage to the light or by a weak ground. Naturally the battery has to be charged with good clean posts. The wires in a 6 volt system are considerably larger than in a 12 volt system. However, by inserting another 6-volt device, such as a 6-volt light bulb, in series with your other 6-volt device, you can easily switch your 12-volt battery to 6 volts. Wiring two 6-volt devices in series reduces the voltage from the battery by half so each device gets 6 volts.
I like to stick to the basics and like things done “old-school.” For batteries you basically have two different kinds: rechargeable vs. non-rechargeable. There are several things to put into consideration. First off, let’s get familiar with what a battery actually is. A battery is a portable electric storage unit by which cells carry an electric charge as a source of current.
Let’s keep it simple and take a look at non-rechargeable batteries. When making a choice on which battery suits your flashlight the best, it is always easier to stick to the basics such as a non-rechargeable battery. The three main brand of batteries you will see while battery shopping is Duracell, Energizer and Rayovac. All three are neck and neck for consumer batteries. The main difference between the three brands is price. Out of all three of those brands, I prefer to use Duracell—specifically Duracell Pro-Cell—with Energizer Max coming in a close second. If I am simply buying batteries for day-to-day use. The only way to go is Rayovac, simply due to how inexpensive they are.
Let’s take a look at some batteries that, in my opinion, exceed those three brands. My favorite non-rechargeable battery is the CR123A 3V NexTORCH Lithium Battery:
I was first introduced to these batteries working as an alarm technician. I quickly noticed that several alarms come with these batteries or people were upgrading to them. They feature a built in circuit protector. They have 10% more capacity than average CR123A and last 20% longer. They are a 3 volt battery with 1400mAH.
Now if you are anything like me, you are now asking yourself what does mAH mean? Well for batteries there are two different ratings on every battery: volts and amp-hours (AH). The AH rating may also be given in milliamp-hours (mAH). For example 1400mAH is equal to 14AH. The voltage of your battery should always remain the same.
Next, let’s look at rechargeable batteries. These batteries are no walk in the park. That being said, here are some things that you should know before purchasing. New rechargeable batteries come discharged and may take 3-4 charge/discharge cycles before the battery reaches its maximum capacity. If you decide to invest in rechargeable batteries, please keep in mind that they require to be discharged and recharged every 2-3 weeks. Why? They will slowly drain on their own and loose their capacitance or—in laymen terms—their ability to store a charge. It never hurts to keep you batteries clean. In fact, it is a very good idea to keep them cleaned to get the most life out of them. To clean a battery, it is best to use alcohol and a cotton swab to clean the contacts at the top and the bottom. The lifetime of the average rechargeable battery is 500-800 charge/discharge cycles. This usually translates into about three years for the average user.
Another term to become familiar with is “memory effect.” It is when you don’t fully charge or discharge the battery, it forgets how much it can really store and remembers less of its capacity. It won’t hold the charge specified on their label if it is not maintained properly. The memory effect is common with NiMH (nickel-metal hydride) batteries.
My favorite rechargeable battery is the Excellerator Rechargeable CR123A 3V:
These batteries are awesome and really inexpensive for what you are getting out of them. They have an extremely fast recharge rate of 85% of full power within 30 min. Also, you get three times the amount of cycles out of these. They have an average of 2000 charge/discharge cycles for these. They have an output of 3.2 volts.
The main difference between non-rechargeable and rechargeable batteries is what they are made out of. For instance NiCad batteries are always rechargeable and Lithium or alkeline are not rechargeable.
If you are looking for a battery that is going to turn your bulb into a beam, then I would suggest any battery that is nickel-zinc (NiZn) battery. These are often the brightest. However if your flashlight regulates voltage, these batteries won’t be any better than just an average battery. It is important to understand that the more volts you have the more likely you are to burn out your bulb at a faster rate.
When buying your batteries next time, put this into consideration:
If you are in a survival situation, how good is a rechargeable battery going to treat you? Are you going to be able to stop and plug them in to recharge? Or you can look at it the other way. Are going to want to haul around a stock-pile of batteries? Wouldn’t you rather haul around just a few and rely off of those to get more bang for your buck?………..The choice is yours.
| Contributed Article |
Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt
You get up on your old tractor and hit the starter button and out comes rrunh... rrrunh.... rrrruhn..... rrr..click.It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn'tfired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 tonthat always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we getfor 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the Ford9N/2N/8N and the Ford NAA and other tractors), this article will explain the basics of the conversionand what you can do if no kit exists for your tractor. Before we do that, lets see what the alternatives are toavoid converting and for those machines that really should not be converted.
To Convert or not to Convert?
If your tractor is a working tractor, there is little reason not to convert beyond the cost. A 12 volt systemis a bolt-on cure that masks the many ailments of hard starting machines without the time and expense of teardownand rebuild. The original 6-volt system will suffice if the tractor is well maintained with optimum tuning, goodcompression, correct gas flow, and minimal losses in the wiring. In the real world, it is difficult to invest thetime necessary to keep up on all these issues and 12-volt conversion becomes inviting. Still, the most compellingreason to convert to 12-volt is that your existing 6-volt system has serious problems and requires replacementanyway. When this occurs, it may actually be easier and less expensive to convert. Locating original componentsmay be very difficult and time-consuming.
On the other hand, if your tractor is rare or you're are restoring it for originality or show, it would be acardinal sin to update the electrics to 1990's standards. In this case, you will have to take the time and expenseto make the 6-volt system work as it was intended. Normally this is not a problem because the your restorationprocess will need to cover all the issues that make the original system work well anyway.
What do I replace (or what do I reuse)?
If it seems that conversion is the right thing for you, several things will need replacement. Due to some oddballitems used on a few machines, it is hard to be definitive on this but for the most part the following list showsthe items that will have to go on most tractors:
- Generator - Since the generator is not made to produce 12-volts, it cannot be modified to charge a 12-voltbattery. Remember to save your old generator, someday you may want to restore your tractor or if you sell it, someoneelse may want to. When you look for your new replacement alternator, be sure to match the pulleys as closely asyou can. The issues are the width of the belt, depth of the belt (determined by its v-shaped profile), and thediameter of the pulley.
- Light Bulbs or Light Assemblies - 6-volt lights will instantly burn out. If you have the original lights, youmay want to consider picking up inexpensive 12-volt light replacement assemblies. It may be difficult to find bulbreplacements that fit in the original assemblies and it will pay off later to keep the original components in originalcondition. There are a range of available light assemblies that go from large steel case models to very cheap rubberlights.
- Regulator - The regulator is made to cut the circuit to the battery and regulate the output of the generator...of a 6-volt system. It will not work with your new system and in any case, many replacement alternators will havethe regulation built right in. If not built in, you will still have a new 12-volt regulator that matches your newalternator.
- Battery - Here is where you get to go buy that new Die-hard. You will have to match the size and shape of theexisting battery to avoid changes to your battery box. Since you will have to exchange your old battery, take itin and accurately compare the profiles; height, width, and length.
- Generator Mounts - It's almost impossible to find an alternator that matches your existing generator mounts.The good news is that making new mounts will frequently mean simply getting some bar stock from the hardware storeand spending a bit of quality time with your hand drill and file. Usually you will have to use spacers or washerson the pivot point to line the new alternator up with the other pullies. Once you have this roughed in, you willdrill a hole in your bar stock to attach the mount to the engine and then drill several closely spaced holes toprovide the adjustment slot. To finish the mount, you will have to file out the material between the holes leavinga slot that allows the adjustment of the belt. There is the possibility that one some tractors this mount willneed an angle. In this case, you will have to cut everything out and take it to your local welder for completion(don't be afraid of this step, the welding still won't cost more than 10 dollars).
- Fuses - Since your fuses are rated for a 6-volt system's amperage, they will likely not blow when they should.They should be replaced with lower rated fuses. To determine the correct rating, you must determine the draw ofyour lights.
Now the best part, what do you get to keep. The following items can be reused, but be sure to understand thelimitations.
- Coil - For battery ignitions, the component that is 6 or 12-volt specific is the coil. You could put a 12-voltcoil on the machine or use a ballast resistor on your existing 6-volt coil. During the 6 to 12 volt transitionperiod in the late 50s and early 60s, it was common for new cars to be equipped with 12 volt systems employinga 6 volt coil and ballast resistor. For Magneto ignitions, there is no change since the magneto is a completelyseparate self-contained electrical system is not impacted by the 6 or 12-volt system.
- Starter - The existing 6-volt starter not only can be reused but most often is your only option. It is improbablethat you will be able to locate a 12-volt starter that will match your drive gears and mounts. Still, real cautionmust be used to avoid burning out your starter. The starter will get hot under 12-volt use so you should avoidcranking for long periods and let it rest between attempts. Keep your tractor tuned up and this should not be aproblem.
- Wiring - If your wiring is in good shape there is no reason to replace it. The 12-volt system will draw 1/2the amperage so your heavy gage 6-volt wiring will more than match the need. If your wiring is in questionablecondition, the conversion is a great excuse to clean it up and eliminate any future problems before they start.It may be a good idea to wire for a 6-volt system in case you do restore in the future.
- Ammeter - Your ammeter will work fine but will show discharge when your system is charging and a charge whenyour system is discharging. This is because you will be reversing the polarity of the battery from positive groundto negative ground to match your new alternator. This is easily fixed by reversing the leads on the Ammeter.
Highlights
In summary, here is a possible scenario for doing this job.
- Locate your lights, fuses, battery and alternator. If you can't find a good fitting alternator with internalregulation, you will also need a matching regulator.
- Build your mounts
- Rewire any poor circuits
- Install the Alternator (and regulator) according to manufacturer provided wiring instructions
- Install new lights and fuse
- Reverse the leads on the Ammeter
- Install the Battery with the negative pole grounded
- Install a ballast resistor on the coil if you have a battery ignition
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9 Volt Battery Flashlight
Today's Featured Article - George's Fordson Major -Install 6 Volt Battery Flashlight Parts
by Anthony West (UK). This is a bit of a technical info to add on to the article about George's Major in the 'A Towny Goes Plowing' article. George bought his Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00. There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken by Harold alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that the major was produced late 19 ... [Read Article]6 Volt Rv Battery
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